Naturally, one can’t see a great city in a day. Probably not even in a month. But perhaps one can get a sense of it, or more modestly, begin to get a sense of it.
The first thing to grasp about Vienna is that it was an imperial capital as recently as 100 years ago; the imprint of the Hapsburgs still marks the city. Their somber images are still easy to find, as are the statues of the old empire’s military leaders.
The culture that bloomed under Franz Joseph is present too, and apparently as strong as ever. Music predominates now as then. Strauss’ golden statue, violin in hand, stands at an entrance to the city park. Concert performances are everywhere. The city opera regularly sells standing room, a practice I’ve never heard of.
There are new architectural forms, especially across the Danube, but I saw none within the Ringstrasse. The new parliament building looks as if it might have been built centuries ago. Athena, wearing a golden helmet, stands at the entrance. As I recall, other ancient figures, some in battle poses, decorate the structure. This is not a building that belongs to the present.
I saw just one sign that the past might be losing its grip: Starbucks coffee shops, of all things. I had a private guide this afternoon, and I asked, “Harry, how can Starbucks make a go of it here in Vienna, the coffeehouse capital of the world? And I hear they charge more besides.” Harry’s face darkened. “It’s the young people,” he said. “Smart American businessmen have convinced them.” Then, with exasperation, he added, “And they sell it in a paper cup!”
We wrap it up tomorrow in Budapest.
The Scratching Post 